The River Thames 1963 & the London Gateway — Glimpses of a Cargo Revolution

Here are two short videos that provide a glimpse at the revolution in cargo shipping in the UK (and the world) over the last half-century. The first video, “Look at Life – Report on a River – The River Thames – 1963,” captures a moment in time just before containerization changed everything. The second video shows the huge, largely automated container terminal London Gateway. The contrast between the port facilities shown on the two videos, separated in time by over 50 years, could not be more dramatic.

A recurring question raised by the narrator of the 1963 video was whether the London docks would be able to expand and adapt to the rise in world trade. The answer turned out to be “no.” Today the London docks have been described as “little more than a garnish of maritime nostalgia on riverside real estate.” What they could not have known in 1963 was that four years later, SeaLand Services would open the first UK container terminal in Felixstowe, approximately 90 miles northeast of London. Today, the Port of Felixstowe handles over 40% of containerized traffic in the UK.

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SS Ayrfield — From Wreck to Mangrove Forest

The steam collier SS Ayrfield was 61 years old. Formally called the Corrimal, the 1,140-tonne ship, ran coal between Newcastle and Sydney before serving as a transport ship for Australia during World War II. After the war, she operated again as a collier between Newcastle and Miller’s terminal in Blackwattle Bay. By 1972, she had reached the end of her useful life and was sent to a scrapyard in Homebush Bay, near Sydney, Australia, to be broken up.

The ship arrived just as the scrap market collapsed and the yard closed. Part of her hull was cut away but her scrapping was interrupted. She settled into the mudflats of the bay, to rust slowly away, a tired relic of another time.

Then something remarkable happened. Mangrove trees took residence in her hull. Before long a veritable forest sprouted from the rusting wreckage. Locals called the ship affectionately, the “Floating Forest”, although the adjective “floating” is more fanciful than literal. 

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Were Polynesian Sailors the Ancestors of Native Americans?

Genetic analysis of modern descendants shows that sailors from the Pacific Islands arrived in the Americas long before Europeans arrived. The question is how long?

A recent study suggests Polynesians and Native Americans made contact some 800 years ago, well before Europeans arrived in North America.

The DNA testing of a member of the Blackfoot tribe in Montona, however, suggests a far earlier interaction. When Darrell “Dusty” Crawford had his DNA tested last year by CRI Genetics, the company traced his line back 55 generations with a 99 percent accuracy rate. The company has never been able to trace anyone’s ancestry in the Americas as far back as Crawford’s DNA, they told him.

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Spain Bans Smaller Sailboats Following Damage From Orca Encounters

Some sailors along Spain’s Galician coast must be saying “we’re gonna need a bigger boat.” There have been reports of up to 30 attacks by orcas directed at sailboats on the northwestern coast of Spain and Portugal.

Now, the Spanish Coast guard is banning boats under 15 meters (49 feet) long from taking to the sea for at least a week off about 90 km (56 miles) of the coast between Cape Piorino Grande and Point Estacas de Bares. The ban could be extended if the pods remain in the area.

Pods of orcas in the region have been ramming and biting boat hulls and rudders since at least  August 19. So far, no one has been killed or seriously injured although several boats have suffered damage to their steering gear or propellers and have had to be towed to safety.

Thanks to Virginia Jones for contributing to this post.

Russian Navy Corvette Collides with Refrigerated Ship in Fog Near Entrance to Baltic Sea

The Danish Ministry of Defense has confirmed that the Russian Navy corvette, Kazanets, collided with the refrigerated cargo vessel, Ice Rose, in dense fog, near the Øresund Bridge, which spans the entrance to the Baltic.  

The Russian ship, a Parchim-class corvette, is reported to have been operating with this AIS turned off. The corvette is said to have suffered a hull breach above the waterline and to have proceeded under its own power toward the Baltiysk Naval Base, Kaliningrad Region, Russia.

The merchant ship, Ice Rose, is reported to have suffered significant damage and is anchored south of the Øresund Bridge awaiting a determination of seaworthiness. Ice Rose is a 14567 DWT ship carrying refrigerated containers. The ship is owned by Maestro Ship Management.

Thanks to Irwin Bryan for contributing to this post.

Around 270 Pilot Whales Stranded on Sandbar on West Coast of Tasmania

Around 270 pilot whales have become stranded on a sandbar on the remote western coast of Tasmania. Rescuers in Australia say that at least a third of the whales have died and that more are dying. 

The BBC reports that rescuers from the Tasmanian Marine Conservation Program arrived late on Monday and found three groups of whales across Macquarie Heads – a remote tip of the island with limited vessel and road access.

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Lake George Rescue — The Kayaker and the Priests on a Floating Tiki Bar

Here is the story of a very lucky kayaker saved by unexpected rescuers on Lake George. It seems a kayaker got into trouble and was rescued by a group of priests out for an afternoon excursion on a floating Tiki Bar. If you are not familiar with Lake George, the story sounds frankly weird. If you know a bit of the lake’s history, it all sort of makes sense.

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Old Three Toes — The Giant Penguin of Clearwater Beach, Florida

This seems like a suitable post for a Sunday in 2020.

On a morning in February 1948, a local beachcomber was walking the beautiful white sand beach in Clearwater, FL, and was shocked to find large three-toed footprints in the sand coming out of the Gulf of Mexico. The tracks were large, 14 inches long and 11 inches wide, made a deep impression in the sand, and were widely spaced. Whatever made the tracks appeared to be heavy and very large. The tracks went on for close to two miles before returning to the water.

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Scientists Baffled by Orcas Ramming Sailboats, Grabbing Rudders

Another 2020 story. Despite being dubbed killer whales, orcas in the wild have a long history of not attacking humans and rarely attacking boats. [Edited — see note at the end of the post.] (The situation with orcas in captivity is not as clear.) But, something very strange has been happening recently off the coast of Spain and Portugal. Pods of orcas have been reported to be ramming sailboats and often grabbing their rudders. The encounters have been reported from Gibraltar to Galacia and have caused significant damage, most often to the boat’s steering. Scientists are at a loss to explain the behavior.

The Guardian reports that in the last two months, from southern to northern Spain, sailors have sent distress calls after worrying encounters. Two boats lost part of their rudders, at least one crew member suffered bruising from the impact of the ramming, and several boats sustained serious damage. Continue reading

Lia Ditton Breaks Solo Ocean Rowing Record to Hawaii

Congratulations to Lia Ditton, who has set a new women’s world record for rowing solo from San Francisco to Hawaii. The 40-year-old Briton made landfall on September 12, completing the passage in 86 days, 10 hours, 5 minutes, and 56 seconds, to break Roz Savage’s 2008 record of 100 days. In addition to adverse currents and winds, she survived two capsizes, encounters with sharks, and a shortage of food. Ditton described the 2,700NM voyage as the greatest psychological challenge of her life.

Nauticmag.com reports that her current row, which Lia calls the half marathon, is viewed by Lia as training. Her main target is to row 5,500 miles from Japan to San Francisco in spring 2021, bidding to succeed where 19 other attempts have failed. To maintain her mission to become the first solo rower to cross the North Pacific, Lia relies on the generosity of her supporters through her crowdfunding campaign. Anyone who would like to add any amount to contribute to the cause can visit www.patreon.com/RowLiaRow. The RowLiaRow ‘Family of Believers’ are entitled to exclusive blog content and updates.

William Main Dorflinger Virtual Shanty Sing — Sunday, September 20th

Earlier this month, we posted about the virtual return of the San Francisco Maritime Association’s Hyde Street Pier Sea Chantey Sing series beginning this Saturday on September 19, 2020. Click here for details.

For even more maritime music, on Sunday, September 20, the Noble Maritime Collection at historic Sailor’s Snug Harbor is co-sponsoring another of its virtual William Main Doerflinger Sea Shanty Sessions. From their events page:

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Autonomous Mayflower, Technological Breakthrough or Hazard to Navigation?

On September 16, 1620, four hundred years ago today, the merchant ship Mayflower set sail from Plymouth, England, bound for the New World with 102 passengers. The mix of religious separatists and entrepreneurs referred to today as Pilgrims would establish the first permanent European settlement in New England.

Today, a high tech autonomous ship, also called the Mayflower, was unveiled. The craft was originally intended to set off to replicate the voyage of the original Mayflower on the anniversary of the original’s departure but was delayed by the pandemic. The plan is now to test the craft, referred to as the Mayflower Autonomous Ship (MAS), over the next six months and to attempt the voyage in April, 2021.    

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Ice Apocalypse — Pine Island and Thwaites Glaciers Collapse Accelerating

Last February we posted “The Doomsday Glacier — the Thwaites Glacier Melting From Below,” about the flow of warmer water that is melting the massive West Antarctic glacier from below. Thwaites is referred to as the “Doomsday Glacier” because it’s collapse could eventually lead to the collapse of the entire West Antarctic ice sheet, which contains enough ice to raise the sea level by about 10 feet. Currently, sea levels are rising about 3.5 millimeters a year, and Thwaites alone contributes about 4% or 5% of the total.

The Washington Post reports that a study of the Thwaites and the adjacent Pine Island glacier, published Monday in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences, shows that a naturally occurring buffer system that prevents the glaciers from flowing outward rapidly is breaking down, potentially unleashing far more ice into the sea in coming years. In other words, the collapse of the Doomsday Glacier is accelerating. The collapse may take centuries but could be unstoppable.

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CMA CGM Brazil, Largest Container Ship to Call on US East Coast

Over the weekend, the container ship, CMA CGM Brazil, docked at the marine terminal in Port Elizabeth, NJ, part of the Port of New York and New Jersey on Newark Bay.  At 15,148 TEU, it is said to be the largest container ship ever to call on any port on the U.S. East Coast.  To make this possible, the Port Authority invested $1.6 billion dollars to dredge the channel and raise the roadway on the Bayonne Bridge to allow the new larger neo-Panamax ships to transit, as well as spending $40 million for new container cranes and equipment.

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Orca That Carried Dead Calf Gives Birth Again

The new calf, J57, with its mother, J35. Credit: Katie Jones, via Center for Whale Research

In the summer of 2018, a female orca whale became of a symbol of the perilous state of the Southern Resident orca pods of the Pacific Northwest. The whale, designated J35 by researchers, had given birth to a calf that died. The mother orca carried the calf with her for 17 days in what appeared to be an act of mourning. Now two summers later, orca J35 has given birth again to what is described as a “robust and lively” new calf, in what may be a ray of hope for the endangered Southern Resident population. 

For the last five years, the Southern Resident orca population has been in trouble, suffering from a scarcity of fish, noise pollution from ships and boats, and toxic pollutants in their food chain. The Southern Resident population includes three pods that largely stay near Washington State and British Columbia. They numbered 88 when they were listed as endangered in 2005 and have since dwindled to 73, including the newborn calf.

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Oceanbird, Proposed Sailing Car Carrier, Cuts Emissions by 90%

A Swedish consortium that includes Wallenius Marine has designed Oceanbird, a five-masted sailing car carrier, that could have a huge impact on the development of modern commercial sail.  The design is intended to be finished in 2021 with potential delivery by 2025.

Oceanbird is a revolutionary design. It is not a small vessel. Whereas another sailing ro/ro project is working toward building a ship with a capacity of fewer than 500 vehicles, the Oceanbird design is a full-sized car carrier, 200 meters long with a 40 meter beam, and a capacity to carry 7,000 vehicles. If built, Oceanbird will be the largest sailing cargo ship that the world has ever seen.

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All Available Boats — Remembering the Amazing Manhattan Boatlift of 9/11

The events of 9/11 are still more clear in my memory than I would like. The dry, clear morning. The call from my wife from the mezzanine of the World Trade Center after the first plane hit the North Tower. The orange blossom of flame when I saw the second plane hit the South Tower. The maelstrom of dust, smoke, and fire after the towers collapsed.

There was a part of that day, however, that was not only worth remembering but worth celebrating — the amazing, virtually miraculous, spontaneous maritime evacuation of somewhere between 300,000 and one million people who were trapped in lower Manhattan on the afternoon of September 11, 2001. It truly was an American Dunkirk.

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Restored Windjammer Peking Returns to Hamburg

In all her former glory, the restored Flying P Liner Peking has returned to her home port of Hamburg. Four years ago, we posted about the Peking‘s departure from New York’s South Street Seaport. During the summer of 2017, she was carried across the Atlantic on a heavy lift ship and underwent a three-year restoration at Peters Werft shipyard in Wewelsfleth, Germany.

This week, the Peking was towed back to Hamburg, greeted by a flotilla of supporters and throngs of wellwishers along the riverbanks. The ship will be the centerpiece of a new German Port Museum, part of Historic Museums Hamburg, scheduled to be completed by 2025. In the meantime, the Peking is alongside her provisional berth on the Bremen Quay.

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Wasn’t That a Mighty Storm — Remembering the Deadly 1900 Galveston Hurricane

One hundred and twenty years ago yesterday, on September 8, 1900, the city of Galveston Texas was struck by what today would be classified as a Category 4 hurricane, with winds of 145 mph and a storm surge of 14 feet. Somewhere between 6,000 and 12,000 people died, making it the deadliest hurricane in US history.  An updated repost from several years ago.

The story of the Galveston Hurricane of 1900 lives on in music. The song “Wasn’t That a Mighty Storm” was first recorded in 1934 by a preacher named “Sin-Killer” Griffin for the Library of Congress by folk song collector, John A. Lomax. The song has also been recorded by Tom Rush, Emmylou Harris and James Taylor, among others. A variation of the song, called “Wasn’t that a Mighty Day” was recorded by the Chad Mitchell trio and the Highwaymen. Sin-Killer Griffin sings below. Other versions after the page break.

Sin-Killer Griffin – Wasn’t That A Mighty Storm

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Crisis on Maersk Etienne Escalates — Three Migrants Jump Overboard

Photo: Maersk Tankers

In early August, the Maltese government asked the tanker, Maersk Etienne, to help a nearby boat in distress. The crew of the tanker found an overcrowded, wooden fishing boat carrying 27 African migrants — including a pregnant woman and a child. They rescued the migrants and proceeded to Malta. After the Maltese authorities requested that the tanker rescue the migrants, the ship was refused permission to dock. Now, 36 days later, the Maersk Etienne sits at anchor off Malta with its 27 passengers, in increasingly dire conditions.

Over the weekend, three of the desperate migrants jumped overboard. They were recovered by the ship’s crew and are being cared for on the ship. 

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