In the decades before the Civil War, Thomas Downing, the son of slaves, became the acknowledged oyster king of New York City when New York was the oyster capital of the known universe. He had learned how to rake oysters as a child on Chincoteague Island, Virginia. When he moved to New York in 1819 at the age of 28, he became an oysterman.
There were hundreds of oyster cellars in New York City at the time, many associated with working-class bars, dance halls, and brothels. Oysters were plentiful, cheap, and thought of as a food of the lower classes.
Thomas Downing helped to change that perception, when he opened his own oyster cellar at 5 Broad Street, in the heart of the financial district, in 1825. The restaurant was elegantly appointed with damask curtains, gold-leaf carvings, chandeliers and mirrored hallways. Stockbrokers, attorneys, politicians, and other of the city’s elites ate raw, fried, or stewed oysters, oyster pie, fish with oyster sauce, or poached turkey stuffed with oysters.